Tatami fill and raised satin border. Facing birdnest issue only on one side

Hello all. Amateur in embroidering and digitising here. Pardon me if I don't get some of these embroidery nuances right.

This is the 3rd time I am embroidering this pattern. I am trying to sew a raised satin (raise: 3) border. Border is done after the fills are done. It was embroidering fine till it turned the last corner. Bird nests started happening after. No matter what I changed nor checked (cleaned out lint, oiled hook timing, new needles, new bobbin case, new bobbin, rewound bobbins and tensioning), the nests continued building right under the fabric.

I went on to skipped that section of the project, and continued to embroider 40k stitch count of tatami stitches. No issues at all.

If anyone is able to shed some light on why I face this issue only on a certain section of the design when the other side of the border seem to embroider ok?

I am using a no brand chinese machine.
Regular polyester threads, from what I know they are category 402? The type that home sewers use for sewing regular garments. I do not use embroidery threads cause they are too shiny and that is not the effect I am going for.
Needle size: Tried both 75/11 and 80/12. 80/12 seem to fare even worse.
Fabric: 8 ounce canvas with iron on stabiliser.

So far no thread breakages.

All Tatami fills are set at density 0.40.

Location: 
United States

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