3d hats

By 3D hats I am assuming you mean hats with puff foam under the thread???

If thats the case the file you are working with needs to be specially digitized for puff foam. Usually double your density and everything needs to be a satin stitch. The bolder and "blockier" (sorry made-up word there) fonts will work the best. You will also more than likely have to loosen your upper tensions on your machine, sometimes (usually) by a lot or else the foam may show through the threads. I'm not going to lie, puff foam is a royal pain, cause its work, its expensive, and it sews very slow, but you can make some GOOD money on it. Especailly if you nab some cheap caps.

I find that 5 panel hats work best, mainly cause you don't have the extra center seam like on the 6 panel, so the foam doesn't tend to "walk" over the seam. I am one of the only shops in my area that will do it. I have an older barudan single head that I use for just puff caps. That way I don't have the tension and re-tension my machines.

Its basically just like sewing a regular cap at this point. Hoop your cap, lay the foam top of the cap, I tend to tape the foam down to the cap with masking tape, don't use the spray adhesive, a roll of masking tape from the dollar store works the same as that $10 can from Sprayway. Not to mention, the spray makes a mess, it flies everywhere and you have a sticky film all over everything. Sew the design through the foam. Once done pull off the excess foam just like you would tear away backing.

If you do have some funny edges or some foam peeking out from between the threads, use an iron with some hot steam, and steam the foam, It is very reactive to heat, and it should shrink back under the thread.

Don't offer foam till you have it down pat. It takes some practice, and you will mess up in the beginning. I have a closet full of rejected hats.

PS. Make sure you are using some good strong titanium needles. Either size 75/11 or 80/12 its a lot of stress on the needles and the machine.