Burnout tee printing

Most of the plastisol inks from companies like Wilfex have a very soft-hand, almost as soft as water-based inks. Plus, it is easier to print and cure.
But if your burning tee's, using water-based ink, turn down your heat and slow your belt speed to allow for water evaporation and cure. Are the shirts burning, or is it just steam? You'll get a lot of steam from water-based inks.
I advocate the use of plastisol because of it's ability to stay in the screen without drying and cleans-up without pouring all those toxins down the drain. Water-based inks have some nasty stuff in them, just check.
If your already printing with plastisol, try the same thing. Turn your heat down to just above the cure temp, "cure times are usually around 320 degrees for one minute", and slow the belt speed. Or speed up the belt at a much higher temp. In the end, it all comes down to what coming out the end of your dryer.
A low-tech way to know your ink, both kinds, is cured is to take one and rub the print with the hem of the shirt. If ink comes off, you'll need to adjust belt speed and temperature.

Dang....I'm know windy....but I hope this helps.

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I don't think he is burning tees I think he is using Burnout ink.

It refers to a chem reaction that takes place with the ink and natural fiber (cotton) you have to use say a 50/50 tee or other blend- the ink "burns out" the cotton leaving the poly - I have some here that I have been wanting to try for 6 months but always have a lame excuse as to why I am not doing it.

Call your ink supplier if they are worth thier salt they will guide you through everything you need to do BUT from what little I know - a ton of smoke might be normal....

Call you Ink supplier. I don't know of any Burn Out product that is a Plastisol. The majority of products would be a water-base (one or two part) and you need to wash them after to get the finished result ( salt wash ) to desolve the cotton leaving the poly behind. It sounds like you are trying to burn out the cotton in the dryer thus creating all that smoke. You should have a light to a medium brown color behind where you printed the burnout. If you are getting a dark or black color way to hot or over curing the product. You also want to use a water resistant emulsion with a hardner to prvent breakdown, that product is very aggressive. Good luck and may the force be with you. On another note most burnout products have a shelve life once prepared or for most products that are a one part only good for 60 days in your shop good for months in the fridge give or take a few days both ways.