By handskills on
Feb. 29, 2008
Forums:
Hello all! I own an entertainment company and we just took over a clothing company. We have been using an older screen printing machine and its been working, we are looking for a new machine but thats a different story.
Our problem here is that we have this logo that we want to screen print over the seams of the sleeves and the one guy has said you couldnt do it. Them we had another person say that you could and then to look into this type of liquid that burns or wraps into the thread, like a bleach type thing? I dont completly remember what it is called.
But if anyone here has anytips on that situation that would be great!
Thanks so much everyone in advance
Chris
Location:
United States
Re: Question for the pros.
Hi Chris,
What we do here is use our Heat Press with our heat transfer vinyl.
Typical screen printing over a seam will result in smooging and it will look terrible.:(
If it's an intricate design, you can also try burning the logo in reverse, printing with plastisol ink on transfer paper, adding adhesive, drying, then heat pressing it onto your substrate. Multi color transfers will require you to pre-shrink your paper, print the foreground colors first, curing, re-register the paper (on a vacuum table) then printing the next color, and so on. After you have printed the last color on the transfer paper, add your adhesive powder, flick off the extra powder, cure, then use your heat tranfer (an iron can do this) to apply the transfer.
Get Transfer Paper here
J.R. Sanford
Production Manager
NW Awards
185 NW Chehalis AV
Chehalis, WA 98532
(shop) 360-748-7346
(cell) 360-880-6384
jr_sanford@yahoo.com
Cast aside your limitations;
And you shall be boundless!
Re: Question for the pros.
The design will be in one color. We have black, red, and white shirts. On the white shirts we want black logo, on the black shirts white logo, and on the red ones a black logo.
Now im not very knowledgable in heat press. Is it same thing as iron on? Printing on that material and ironing it on?
Thanks for the input so far.
Re: Question for the pros.
bump
Re: Question for the pros.
got good info im going to go try this stuff, ill keep everyone posted.
Re: Question for the pros.
If these are just one color images, I would suggest adding NOVA BASE by WILFEX or Fashion SOFT also by WILFLEX. These are designed to penetrate the fabric and is great for going over the seams. This will work great for the light shirts getting dark ink, however with the black tee getting white ink, you may want to think of using discharge ink which will remove the dye from the printed area of the tee leaving it a natural color. You will need an emulsion that will stand up to the discharge or an emulsion hardener. Wilflex and Union both make discharge inks. They can tell you exactly what you need.
Ian Keller
Select Design
SelectDesign.com
:eek:
Re: Question for the pros.
Hey Ian, how do you get your sqeegee ot make proper contact with the substrate going over a seam?
Keeping it frm smooging all over? :confused:
J.R. Sanford
Production Manager
NW Awards
185 NW Chehalis AV
Chehalis, WA 98532
(shop) 360-748-7346
(cell) 360-880-6384
jr_sanford@yahoo.com
Cast aside your limitations;
And you shall be boundless!
Re: Question for the pros.
i second this question. :confused:
Re: Question for the pros.
Hey, I believe the process of printing you are looking for is called burnout, or discharge printing. This process effectively discharges the original garments color and is replaced with the desired color via a chemical reaction that takes place under heat.
It's pretty cool stuff. When you print it on the shirt, you dont really see much; If you are printing white on black, it can look like you just printing a super opaque waterbased ink, but when it comes out of your dryer on the other side, it is really bright. (If done correctly)
It needs more time than to cure than most inks, which should evaporate most of the excess blobs of ink around the seams. I have used these inks, but not over seams. This is just an educated guess.
I used Union Inks "Plasticharge." But there are many other products out there - most of the names of the products end with "charge"
Good luck!
Re: Question for the pros.
I Agree with Ian on using the Fashion Soft Base but in my opinion for best results you will want to do this all in Water Base ink using 110 mesh a soft squeegee around a 60 duro ( the squeegee will help get that ink around and in the seam ) For the Darks the best white you will be able to get is using the Sericol TexCharge TC-311 HO white with no more than 4% discharge Agent double pass. You can alos try the Sericol TC-021 White and Wilflex Super Discahrge White both with a max of 4% agent. The trick on the white will be adding no more than 4% agent, any more then that it starts to yellow. I have also achived this by using Wilflex Plascharge at a 40% mix into a 100% cotton white ( MX White, Artist Plus White, ect. ) so 40% Plascharge, and 60% white adding 4% discharge agent to this as well. One last thing I forgot to mention is that you can only discharge 100% cotton no blends or pigment dyed shirts. Good Luck. If you need a new machine look at Anatol.
Re: Question for the pros.
I use a soft squeegee though I don't go as low as 110 with my mesh. A 125 or 140 usually suffices. I make sure the ink is very runny to make up for the slightly higher mesh. This allows me to go over the sames without any (or very little) squishing out the sides. Great tips on the white discharge zsvpablo!
Ian
:eek:
Re: Question for the pros.
Here's what I do.
I make two screens, one for just the seams and another for the rest of the print. The seams screen is "say a 230" mesh screen and the other is a 156.
I wipe-out all the artwork except for where the seams would be. Then make the other proof as normal, only taking out the seams. I line it up like a two-color print making sure to leave a slight over-lap with the artwork, "between the seams screen and the normal screen", so when I print, it looks as though it was one screen.
The tighter mesh leaves less ink and won't smear over the seams. And when you print the other screen.....you can't tell that it took two.
I'm not saying it is the best way...but it has worked very well for along time. Oh...One screen can still do very well if the artwork is simple. You won't need special inks or technics.
Hey, if I could start doing it with hand drawn artwork, hand stretched screens and cameras the size of Mount Rushmore back in 81'...you can do it now.
.
At the edge of dreams lay the far-flung ideals of true creation.
Re: Question for the pros.
Discharge is very thin and is possible to print without buildup, but you will be left with a bleached image and if you add color you will run into your initial problem. Depending on the type of seam your talking about or how exactly you want the image to overlap, i can give you a very easy, inexpensive solution. To give you an idea, this is how i print over zippers. Simply sacrafice a pallet or make one out of wood. Cut a grove in it to allow your seam to lay flush. No bump. No build up. Other wise sublimation or heat transfer.
good luck!