Embroidering on Nylon Dog Collars

I need some helpful hints on the method to embroider Nylon Dog Collars.
Needle size and point, type and weight of pellon, should I use adhesive paper?
Density of stitches in letters? Water soluable topping? Best letter fonts? Letter size?
Any hint will be appreciated.

Location: 
United States

We have completed over 50,000 name tags on both nylon and sized/un-sized cotton webbing over the past year and a half.

Due to the need for repeatability we purchased several Hoop Tech ICTCS 2 Frames with the 7.5" x 3" windows that we modified to handle and line up the webbing ( http://www.hooptechproducts.com/itcs2.html ). This allows us to use the frames on any of our machines ( 4, 2 & single head) and still use the frames for their original uses but allows the webbing to be lined up to match for making multiple names on a single run.

We use a Titanium 75/11 Sharp for all, NO backing or topping is needed. We use black bobbins and normally block lettering. Some script fonts work well but you will need to try them to see what works well in your case. Lettering is sized to no closer than 1/8" from the edge and all sewing is done with POLYESTER THREAD only. Rayon will not last.

Hope this info helps you. ;)

I've done them too.

Best advice to avoid flagging is use the clamp like flint said. I use the table on my machine, and you need to clamp the ever living $@!# out of them ... lol

I have the ICTCS2 with the 7.5x3 inch hoop and have the instructions on the desktop
I haven't put it on the machine just yet. (scared)
I have used the The needle 75/11 sharp, I am leaving 1/4 inch from edge and thread type I use is polyester I thank you for the confirmation.
What about font types? I am using Ariel. Are there any other good ones that work on the thick nylon webbing? Or Stitch density?
I had been using regular hoops with pellon and the top thread has a tendency to bunch up.
Do you have tight top thread? Or is that due to the flagging?

As far as flagging be sure to follow the mfg instructions for setting up the clamp on your machine, be sure to have the clamp ride on the arm on the tape applied on the underside. Also be sure to have the webbing tight in the clamp or you will have problems. For density we are running ours with a +10 in Pulse Illustrator close to a .33 - .35mm or a 3.5pt I would think. Due to the large weave of the webbing the needle can be deflected a bit so the higher density assists in improving the look. Experiment with each type of webbing you will be using to find the best for your needs and the same goes for the fonts. Our base clients have a specific need for block fonts only so that is what we use, haven't needed to check out many others so have not done that. ;)

I know this is a really old post, but I have some questions relating to embroidering on nylon or polypropylene webbing.

I've been asked to personalize a customer supplied horse halter.

My first thought is to split the webbing (triple layer), embroider, and the stitch it back up. My second thought is to embroider on Polypropylene webbing either same width (matching) or 3/4" (contrasting) and then stitch that down.

Since this is a one off, which would be preferable. I will have to order the Polypropylene since I don't know of any place to buy in locally.

I have dg/ml Pulse software which has a recipe called "Dog Collar". It has no underlay, 0.1mm Pull Comp, and 50.8 spi density. I used this recipe to personalize collars from PetSmart for my own dogs. I was not happy with the density (way to light) and I think the registration was ever so slightly off.

I'm thinking what I need to make these changes to the recipe: use normal density of 63.5 spi (4 pt) or maybe even 72.6 spi (3.5 pt), 0.1 mm pull comp, center run (perpendicular) or edge run (contour) underlay, and stitch from center out. I'm thinking 18mm font height, all caps, if I'm stitching on 1" webbing. If I go with the 3/4" webbing, I'm thinking 12 mm font height, all caps. I read that the general rule of them is 1/8" margin top and bottom for font height, so I think these numbers are inside that margin. I am wondering though since there's no backing if there's any reason to use underlay unless you use contour just to give the edges extra support.

I was thinking of getting the FastFrames Dog Collar clamp, but after reading this post and seeing the difference in price between that and the 7"x3" icTCS-2 clamp, I think I need to add another icTCS window to my collection. I already have both size clamps. When I did the dog collars, I just hooped a piece of tearaway (sprayed with KK100) in a big hoop, ran a placement stitch with a stop at the end and then placed the collar over the placement stitch, taping the ends down with painter's tape. That might be why my registration was just slightly off. That and the fact that I made my font to big.

I don't plan to do a lot of horse halters or dog collars, but would like to have the confidence to say yes every time someone asks me to do one.

Thanks,
Alisa Davis
Dancing Bay Embroidery

Hello This is Prabhu

I'm New here, and i having a doubt and need a help to know what Embroidering effects inside the text in this attachment :(

[ATTACH]25587[/ATTACH]

Pls tell me its a effect or need to create all the details individuall.:confused:

Please Help Me asap

Regards
Prabhu

Prabhu - you will get MUCH more help if you start your problem as a new topic. This one is about dog collars that was started in 2010!

But - to answer your question - your lettering looks like it is using a "fancy" stitch that has been pre-programmed on the software used to digitize it. I would guess that different softwares have different fancy stitches. Which software are you using?

Flint, I also use Pulse illustrator. What underlay and stitch length do you use? I tried a smoother type collar one time and got a lot of looping so I gave up. It was just for my own use so it didn't matter. But I would like to do this. Thanks.