embroidering on lightweight material

By Voldaddy on Feb. 21, 2012

Is it possible to embroider a logo on a nice lightweight performance polo and not have it pull. We have tried everything and they look OK but not great. I have asked everyone and the answer I get is that it is unavoidable. I am looking for some thoughts on this and am I fighting a losing battle?

Keith

AJST's picture
Submitted by AJST on Wed, 02/22/2012 - 03:29

I ran into the same problems trying to sititch satins, vinyl, and body shirts. The satins pull and create runs, the vinyl and body shirts streached in the hoops and then puckered when you took them out of the hoops. I found a soulution that works for me.

Use thick cut away backing. I hoop the backing without the fabric then use temporary adhesive to stick the fabrick to the backing. The backing does not streach in the hoop and does not pucker after released from the hoop, there are no hoop burns on the fabric, and this process does away with most of the pulls and runs in satins.

I havent had the occasion but I understand that you can even embroider toilet paper this way. This would be for decorative purposes of course.

Let us know if this helps.

AJ’s Stitchin’ Time
Dennis Wilson
Embroidery Machine Technician
ajstitch.com Dennis@ajstitch.com
Submitted by kohnan on Fri, 02/24/2012 - 15:02

That's great advice and I'm giving it a try on some dry fit polos I'm looking to do up today. I was wondering how do you ensure that the garment is square with the hoop so that the logo sews out level on the shirt? Any advice?

Thanks!

Eric

AJST wrote:
I ran into the same problems trying to sititch satins, vinyl, and body shirts. The satins pull and create runs, the vinyl and body shirts streached in the hoops and then puckered when you took them out of the hoops. I found a soulution that works for me.

Use thick cut away backing. I hoop the backing without the fabric then use temporary adhesive to stick the fabrick to the backing. The backing does not streach in the hoop and does not pucker after released from the hoop, there are no hoop burns on the fabric, and this process does away with most of the pulls and runs in satins.

I havent had the occasion but I understand that you can even embroider toilet paper this way. This would be for decorative purposes of course.

Let us know if this helps.

Submitted by nametags on Wed, 02/22/2012 - 07:33

Great reply Dennis. I've done part of what you suggested, but hadn't tried the adhesive and placing it on top. I'll try that ASAP.
I usually hooped the garment and backing loosely, and then tightened the hoop, time consuming and frustrating, but it worked.
Yours is a much better method. Thanks for the advice.

AJST's picture
Submitted by AJST on Fri, 02/24/2012 - 19:54

Brain Storm...

I haven't tried it, but if you are using the hoopmaster go ahead and hoop the backing. Apply the adhesive spray. Place the shirt over the hoopmaster and the pre-hooped backing. Then use a hoop one size smaller to place the shirt. Press the shirt to the backing and stitch away.

I would really like to know if this works. If anyone tries it let me know.

AJ’s Stitchin’ Time
Dennis Wilson
Embroidery Machine Technician
ajstitch.com Dennis@ajstitch.com
Submitted by Eric on Sun, 03/04/2012 - 11:57

We do a TON of these performance polo's ... We us magnetic hoops, and a hoopmaster as to avoid stretching when pressing the shirt into the hoop. With a magnetic hoop there is little (if no) stretching of the fabric, as the magnets clamp the fabric in place.

ALSO a backing tip, is to use 2 types of backing on them. Use the no-show mesh backing on top, then a piece of medium weight tear away on the bottom. Then hoop, when your design is done, tear off the tear away, and then trim up the mesh. Adds stability, without actually leaving extra backing on the shirt. Generally helps reduce pucker during sewing, and the magnetic hoops help reduce stretch, as they grip the material with little to no stretch.

Just my $0.02

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