Miami Ink!!

yes, and I print epic plastisol on top and have not had any problems. I actually use it for underbase on my 50/50 tshirts aswell.

If your quick white is climbing like that then you have something going on. We use it daily with no additives straight out of the bucket. No climbing issues Everything from 156-230 mesh.

If your paying that much your getting ripped off. I pay a lot less than that for it. I would request better pricing from you supplier.

Quick white also does not have puff in it FYI.

I think I pay $285 for quick white.

and free shipping.

I'm still trying to order a gallon of it.

*shrug*

I email and then get no response, follow up and get a confused response, clarify and get no response.

I thought someone posted they did not have a phalate free ink?

And yes I am just finishing up a five gallon of the smooth and it has been perfect all the way.

Love my superior on press. A little stringy but damn I NEVER have to recenter, doesn't climb, great one hit opacity and smooth lay-down.

Yeah, you would think. But no phone call from him. ;)

The smooth I got blows quick white away! Opacity is much better, it is a bit more stcky but some simple adjustments and it flows extremely well. Good to know its phalate free.

Only thing I dont like about using a curable reducer is it changes the flash time,, not always good when your using a quart flash and your palettes are piping hot.

I missed a call from him a while back and did not call him back. It would almost seem cost prohibitive to buy from someone completely across the country with shipping.

Not when a 5'er is 100-200 less than some other brands.

I prefer the superior, it's a little more to my liking over the smooth, but the smooth is better than most. I think the superior is a tad bit more opaque, but with that you lose a little bit of the workability of the ink. That stuff with a touch of qcm 159 mixed in with it, maybe 10-15% really brings out the best in both inks. I don't want it super short bodied like the 159 is, but I don't want it as long bodied as the smooth and superior are right out of the bucket either. I'll take a long bodied white over short any day for the auto. There is nothing worse than having to put a half gallon of ink in a screen to print 36 shirts.

We use it to. We no longer use other whites. You cant beat this ink for price, opacity, flash time and how well it works on the auto.

The smooth is the best white ink we have EVER used...will be ordering some more soon, just need to use up the expensive stuff we have first, hate to just waste it.

I told all of you guys Miami ink was the best. and know for a second hint staples is the best place for tape PERIOD! email me and I will give you the low down.

Why not add a poly additive!

call nazdar. We use some nyla-bond.

NYLA BOND is an additive for printing on nylon not poly. Ink altered wityh a nylon catalyst will cure harder and more brittle, not what you want on most poly garments since they have some stretch to them.

You can try matting powder. That in small amounts will help. The point of adding fast flash powder or bonding agent to plastisol or hugger is that you cure the ink at a lower temperature of say 120 Celsius instead of 168 and with the lower temperature you get less dye migration. Yes it does go harder according to volume you use, you can try printing a first down Lycra / Stretch as well...

Actually wiz nylon catalyst is not intended to lower the cure temp, it is to help adhere to nylon. If you read the instructions it states it still requires the ink to be fully cured. I have seen people for years think nylon catalyst is a curing additive, sure printing tote bags or chairs you can get away with a less than cured print but it is not worth the risk on apparel that will be washed. They make whites that are for poly and have a lower cure temp, they also make inks that are catalyzed for nylon with a lower cure temp.

Mike the nylon hugger catalyst here clearly says reduces curing after gelling at 120 degrees with plastisol @ 5-6% recommended added, needs 96 hours minimum to cure before wearing, washing etc.

Correct! The fabrics are sometimes over dyed, particularly navy and black which can sometimes bleed red or blue etc. there are also many dies and process like reactive, arsenic and sulphur overdies activators etc. it's usually the cheaper shirts which give grief. We don't print anything bought out of a chain store anymore, only from decorator distributors of garments. Even then someone always has an odd batch that mis-behaves!!! We charge a premium now for polyester printing....

Not familiar with hugger but nylobond clearly states cure at the plastisols normal curing temp. It also is not recommended to use with any poly inks since it will compromise the poly blocking ability hence never use it for poly ink printing.

What is hugger and by who?

I have low cure polys as well only problem tho is if you print any other color then you have no choice but to cure at higher temps.

cures at 290, its the best on the market, I have been using it since it came out.

performance white that is.